The politics of colour

I still haven’t quite figured this out yet, when is it better to be white and when can being brown work to my advantage? I guess I need to explain myself a little more here. I get ‘White girl’ hoots on the streets and I when I asked my reporters about this, they explained that anyone that’s not black in Sierra Leone is white by default.

So I’ve been trying to use both my identity as an Indian and as a foreigner to my advantage. For instance at Choithram supermarket and Merani’s provision stores they always cut me deal because I throw in a Hindi greeting and ask about home. On the other hand, at restaurants and the bank I always get better service if I turn on my fake British accent.

Being brown works well in public transport because I always pay the lowest price as long as I keep my mouth shut. I can then pass off as a local Indian. Although, when it’s really late at night and no taxis will stop, being foreign will get you a cab even though you may end up paying too much for it.

I feel white when I go into Crown Bakery where all the expats hang out and pay exorbitant amounts of money for mediocre food and good air conditioning. Or when I’m at one of those NGO gatherings where every white person in Freetown turns up. But I like being brown when I’m haggling for fruits and vegetables on the street.

I once met a taxi driver who passed on some valuable survival tips. He said I should always put on my heaviest Indian accent when communicating with the locals. That would save me from getting ripped off.

My flat mates are Canadian and British, both countries I have strong connections with, so it’s easy for me to slip into my white skin when I’m home, but the landlords upstairs are Indian so it’s nice to pop up for some homemade samosas once in a while.

So I’m conflicted in Freetown about my identity, more than I’ve been in any part of the world. But I guess the thing to do is get the best out of whatever it is people think I am.